Showing posts with label 3.0 Footprint. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 3.0 Footprint. Show all posts

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Foundation covering

I know this picture isn't pretty, but this part of the job has been put off and has kept me up nights, so it's a big deal to see it getting done. We covered the exposed part of the foundation insulation with about 1 foot of coated white aluminum flashing. Note that it is folded over the bottom of the wall furring to prevent vermin from crawling in the walls between the siding (not shown), sheathing (white), and furring strips (wooden). Gord has a special tool for bending metal like this.

The blue foundation insulation is already discolored from the morning sun beating down on it all summer. It was about time we covered it up. Hopefully, it didn't lose too much of its insulation value. This is on the east side of the house. The corner trim actually helps to hold it in place for now, and it will eventually be covered by siding. Alex was worried that the white flashing would look too white and get too dirty looking once it's been on for a while. As it turns out, it actually takes on a little bit of a grayish tinge when contrasted with the ultra-white of the Maibec trim, so it doesn't look too bad.

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Filling in the foundation

This is Eric with the big loader filling in the foundation, covering the drainage pipes with 1/2'' clear stone. Fortunately, Normand is working a larger project very nearby and these machines just have to rumble over for these little jobs as they come up.

I was careful to remove the wooden supports gingerly and shovel the crushed stone around the drains manually so that they stayed at the level that the plumber installed. The ones seen here are actually the drains for the kichen and the adjacent walk-in pantry.

Finished foundation

Here are a couple of pictures of the insulated foundation. It gives a good idea of how we did it. It's about $2000 of stryrofoam SM, but it will pay for itself over our lifetimes in heat savings. The aluminum coating on the interior is very visible, held in place by tape. This may be overkill, of course, but the stuff is cheap. It's also effective. Lisa said it really heated up on the inside as she was finishing the job.

In the first picture, Kitty inspects her new catwalk. It will not be one for long.

The second picture shows the sunset over Spruce Hill, with the access for the septic tank in the foreground.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Foundation insulation continues

Lisa points with pride to the fine job she's done insulating the foundation (not to the post anchor). In this photo, the outside is finished and the inside is in progress. She has since finished the inside.

Today, she insulates the pilasters and I line the inside with aluminum foil vapor barrier. Aluminum foil vapour barrier reflects the heat radiation emitted by the crushed stone into the space between the crushed stone.

Did I mention that she's very handy with a knife?

Friday, October 30, 2009

Insulating the foundation

Here's a picture of my lovely wife and assistant cutting 2'' Styrofoam SM boards for the foundation. She's very crafty with a knife. We are installing 4'' on the outside and 2'' on the inside. Today we nailed it to the sill on the outside. We'll need to nail into the concrete on the inside. Hello power drill.

This gives us R-30 insulation value. Overkill? Not with a radiant slab. The temperature of the slab will be maintained at 75 C (22 C) whereas the temperature of the air will be closer to 65 F ( 18 C) (for very toasty toes). If you want to keep the heat in, you need to insulate the slab. Moreover, with a solar system you want to store solar heat from the day and summer through the night and winter. You need to insulate below the slab as well.

Installing the drains

Martin (the plumber)of Plomberie Gilbert and his helper Ben arrived from Knowlton today on short notice (Alex told me this morning that he was coming to install the interior drains). Much to his relief, our foundation was not yet filled with crushed stone, making the work much easier.

The first order of business was to install the coil for the solar heat dump. The solar heat dump keeps the tank and solar collectors from overheating in the summertime when the need for heat is low and the supply of sun abundant. Martin pulled it out into a boingy slinky shape to help dissipate the heat even more. I'll be adding insulation above the coil to assure that the heat goes into the ground instead of to the slab, and to isolate .

Bill Northey and the technicians at Radiant Floor Heating Company customized the coil by adding two elbows and 42'' tubes to bring the cooling fluid from the ledge to the slab. He recommended burying in sand (instead of crushed stone) to maximize the thermal contact with the ground. The heat dump itself is pictured in the second image at lower right. We used it to measure out the position of the coil relative to the other plumbing.

Also shown here are the sewage drains under construction and, in the third image, completed. The main sewage drain runs out the hole in the foundation wall at back. You can actually see the top of the septic tank too. The floor drains runs out int he corner at left. The cruched stone supports the toilet drain. The whole foundation will eventually be filled with the stuff.

Great work by Martin and Ben.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

The naked foundation

Here it is folks: the foundation, "tous nu"! We're about to install the weeping tile around the footings tomorrow, and will backfill some tomorrow, so I figured I better get a few pictures. Normand the excavator was in the neighborhood with the backhoe and bulldozer, so he kept it at our place over the weekend. He'll be installing the septic tank The electrician will be installing the buried power line and private pole on Tuesday. Hopefully Bell will show up to put in the hydro pole (they were supposed to do it last Thursday).

Here's a detail of the anchor system. These anchors will hold the posts in place with bolts. Should be good for up to F2 tornadoes.Looks like the frost took a toll on the corner of the foundation. Other than this, the foundation is straight and smooth.

I've posted a panorama of the house site. Not only is the house progressing, the seasons are too. Hope the snow holds out.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Foundation done

Removing the forms.













Friday, October 9, 2009

Setting up foundation forms

One of the fun things about hiring contractors and being on site is that you get to watch people do the stuff they really know how to do. The tools of the trade arrived on flatbed trucks. These racks of wooden concrete forms were hoisted onto the site using a crane. Because this foundation has pilasters, it required a lot of pieces not used on most building sites.

When I saw them, I realized why a lot of foundation contractors prefer these to styrofoam forms. These are 1 inch thick plywood with cast iron links. That's a little more sturdy than styrofoam and less likely to collapse when you climb over them or during a pour.

I caught Roger Laroche looking at the camera as he assembled them. This was the only time. He's in and out pretty quickly with his team, and watching what he's doing during that time. He came yesterday with one worker to set up the forms. Either the plans I gave him had a miscalculation, or I had given him an older version of the plans. With all the wonky post positions and the calculations for styrofoam forms, something just didn't add up. Instead of trying to figure it out, we went back to the timber framers plans and wall system to figure out the positioning of the pilasters and that the exterior of the foundation wall needed to be 5 inches out from the posts.

Lessons 1 - Burn all old versions of your plans
Lesson 2 - Make sure your contractors know what they're building.

This morning I checked the measurements and it all checked out, but the interior post footings were off; fixed it. Roger and I double checked the post positions together before the pour: measuring tape was flying everywhere. Roger used string wrapped to nails on top of the forms to line up the post positions to make sure they'd be resting on pilasters. Roger then used them to position the post anchors into the concrete. Double checked these after. One was half an inch off.

No pictures of finished pour today. Camera was out of batteries, and I was too busy measuring to take pictures.

The final footings

Here's a nice view of the finished footings. Surprisingly (to me), they took one relatively damp afternoon to dry. The water just rises to the top and either evaporates or runs off. The three footings inside the house are for the chimney (right) and interior posts (two footings at left). These were poured about a foot too far to the left. I caught it though with my trusty measuring tape. The foundation contractor just extended them one foot to the right. Good save, Roger.

Concrete, if used correctly, is a fine thing. Sure, it has a nasty carbon footprint, but note how the footing keeps the water from that little spring pooling in the crevice at bottom right. This is good, because it is not pooling inside the house. Water pooling under the house is not environmental; it leaves mold. We filled this pool with extra concrete left over after the foundation pour. The spring now drains behind the house (to the left of the photo).

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Final wall system

Well, I screwed up a calculation on the foundation pillasters and confused the foundation contractor. Had to recalculate on the spot. Good thing I had everthing on this blog to print out.

Given that the foundation forms are now up, this will have to be the final version of the wall system. Features include:
  • 2' footings
  • 8'' walls
  • wall height 2'-3'
  • 8'' pillasters to support posts
  • foundation walls protrude 5'' from post exterior
  • 4'' SM insulation outside foundation
  • 2'' SM insulation inside foundation

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Forms for footings

We went with 2 foot footings directly on the rock. I'm glad we did. A 2-foot barrier bonded to the rock should divert away any runoff moving along the top ot the rock.
The plans for the foundation are outlined here.

The foundation contractor (Laroche et fils) showed up with a flat bed and crane that deposited and a nice portable tool shed on the site (see previous post). The excavation had actually left the site more even than anticipated, despite some undulating crevices and depression that caused the water to pool. All in all, the footing ended up having only three steps, and the final height varies by no more than a foot.

This image shows where the footing is at its thickest at the corner of the "shed" extension. The footing actually dips into a crevice in the rock that will act as a natural drain for the north side of the house.

Diagram of well

This is all you can see of the well now.

Here's the diagram of the well with all the relevant statistics. The back fill has yet to be added. We hit water at 60 ft but needed to continue until about 180 ft to get a decent fill rate of 100 gallons/hr. The water levels off at about 30 ft below the surface. The reservoir of water is about 135 U.S. gallons or 620 litres.

The bentonite collar is necessary in the code to prevent infiltration from surface water because we are directly on the rock. Bentonite is a type of concrete that expands enormously when it comes into contact with water. It added a nifty $1700 to the cost of the well :-/ .

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Busy worksite

We were expecting the well people from Puisatiers Exprets from Granby this morning. I hear action at the site, grab my well permit, and rush up to the site only to find the people from Laroche et fils getting ready to build the footings for my foundation. So I rush down to finish my foundation plans.

It was a busy worksite, but manageable. The contractors seemed to know how to stay out of each others way. Good thing, because there was a lot of coming and going. I managed to get some work in myself, although I was not nearly as busy as I appear to be here. Here I am moving the leftover concrete from the pump truck. I'm using it to block the runoff from a small spring in the driveway. This should help divert the water from a natural crevice under the house to a natural crevice running BEHIND the house.

Roger Laroche inspects his footing pour at far right, and the well guys drill for water in the background.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Current foundation system and footprint

This foundation option shows
  • 2' wide footing on the bedrock.
  • 8'' (7 7/8'') foundation wall (2'-4' high) supporting insulated wall truss system
  • 8'' pilasters to support posts of timber frame.
  • 21/2'' insulated concrete forms (Aarx)
  • 2'' Styrofoam SM board on outside of foundation; flush with sheathing from wall system
  • High point is on southwest corner of house.
It will be built in the following sequence:
  • Footings layed on bare rock; footing for chimney and interior posts anchored to stone
  • ICF's put in place, sill anchors and sub-floor utility cut through ICF's, and walls poured
  • Weeping tile placed to drain interior; layer of clear stone placed to cover weeping tile; moisture barrier put in place; all interior covered with clear stone
  • frame and roof built on foundation walls
  • hydronic heating tubing and equipment installed and 4'' hydronic slab poured
Dimensions of forms are for Aarx ICFs. Cross section shows an 8'' wall with an extra 2'' of styrofoam insulation (R-35; total extra cost $800 for extra styrofoam assuming 3' high wall all around). ICF's represent equivalent insulation value of $2000 worth of Styrofoam SM insulation.

I've consulted various foundation builders on the feasability of pouring a concrete wall directly onto the bedrock using insulated concreted forms (ICFs). Even the contractors (along with representatives form the ICF manufacturers) willing to do it said that it is less labor intensive and hence cheaper to build a stepped footing directly on the rock, place the ICF's flat on the footing, and pour on the walls onto the footings. It appears any saving in concrete is mitigated by the awkwardness and increased labor costs of scribing the ICF's to the rock.

A 2ft-wide footing also has the advantage of a) being more resistant to washout than a 10'' foundation wall b) not requiring drilled rebar (the rock is undulating and uneven, so that footings will be be held firmly in place), and c) being decoupled from the actual foundation for a certain amount of seismic damping in the event of earthquake.

That makes this the preferred option.
References:

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Revised wall system I


This is a revised wall system using insulated concrete forms (ICF's) from Arxx.

The cross section does NOT include the posts and pilasters for the timber frame.

The wall system above is flush with the foundation/form system below.

References:

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Chimney

The Intrepid is approved for venting into a masonry chimney with a nominal flue size of 8” x 8” (200 x 200 mm) .

Footing is on base rock and rises to level of slab. Slab covers footing. A 2" wooden floor will cover the concrete floor.

Height ( above slab): 26'
Flue size: 8” x 8”
Masonry all thickness: 4"
Total dimensions: 1'4''

Distance from south interior wall: 6'3''
Distance from west interior wall: 13'11''
Clearance from woodstove: 9''
Clearance from main beam: 4''
Clearance from roof peak (lateral): 3'6''
Clearance from roof peak (height): 2'1''