Showing posts with label 3.0 Footprint. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 3.0 Footprint. Show all posts
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Foundation covering
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Filling in the foundation
I was careful to remove the wooden supports gingerly and shovel the crushed stone around the drains manually so that they stayed at the level that the plumber installed. The ones seen here are actually the drains for the kichen and the adjacent walk-in pantry.
Finished foundation
In the first picture, Kitty inspects her new catwalk. It will not be one for long.
The second picture shows the sunset over Spruce Hill, with the access for the septic tank in the foreground.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Foundation insulation continues
Today, she insulates the pilasters and I line the inside with aluminum foil vapor barrier. Aluminum foil vapour barrier reflects the heat radiation emitted by the crushed stone into the space between the crushed stone.
Did I mention that she's very handy with a knife?
Friday, October 30, 2009
Insulating the foundation
Here's a picture of my lovely wife and assistant cutting 2'' Styrofoam SM boards for the foundation. She's very crafty with a knife. We are installing 4'' on the outside and 2'' on the inside. Today we nailed it to the sill on the outside. We'll need to nail into the concrete on the inside. Hello power drill.This gives us R-30 insulation value. Overkill? Not with a radiant slab. The temperature of the slab will be maintained at 75 C (22 C) whereas the temperature of the air will be closer to 65 F ( 18 C) (for very toasty toes). If you want to keep the heat in, you need to insulate the slab. Moreover, with a solar system you want to store solar heat from the day and summer through the night and winter. You need to insulate below the slab as well.
Installing the drains
Martin (the plumber)of Plomberie Gilbert and his helper Ben arrived from Knowlton today on short notice (Alex told me this morning that he was coming to install the interior drains). Much to his relief, our foundation was not yet filled with crushed stone, making the work much easier.
The first order of business was to install the coil for the solar heat dump. The solar heat dump keeps the tank and solar collectors from overheating in the summertime when the need for heat is low and the supply of sun abundant. Martin pulled it out into a boingy slinky shape to help dissipate the heat even more. I'll be adding insulation above the coil to assure that the heat goes into the ground instead of to the slab, and to isolate .
Bill Northey and the technicians at Radiant Floor Heating Company customized the coil by adding two elbows and 42'' tubes to bring the cooling fluid from the ledge to the slab. He recommended burying in sand (instead of crushed stone) to maximize the thermal contact with the ground. The heat dump itself is pictured in the second image at lower right. We used it to measure out the position of the coil relative to the other plumbing.
Also shown here are the sewage drains under construction and, in the third image, completed. The main sewage drain runs out the hole in the foundation wall at back. You can actually see the top of the septic tank too. The floor drains runs out int he corner at left. The cruched stone supports the toilet drain. The whole foundation will eventually be filled with the stuff.
Great work by Martin and Ben.
Great work by Martin and Ben.
Sunday, October 25, 2009
The naked foundation
Here's a detail of the anchor system. These anchors will hold the posts in place with bolts. Should be good for up to F2 tornadoes.Looks like the frost took a toll on the corner of the foundation. Other than this, the foundation is straight and smooth.
I've posted a panorama of the house site. Not only is the house progressing, the seasons are too. Hope the snow holds out.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Friday, October 9, 2009
Setting up foundation forms
When I saw them, I realized why a lot of foundation contractors prefer these to styrofoam forms. These are 1 inch thick plywood with cast iron links. That's a little more sturdy than styrofoam and less likely to collapse when you climb over them or during a pour.
I caught Roger Laroche looking at the camera as he assembled them. This was the only time. He's in and out pretty quickly with his team, and watching what he's doing during that time. He came yesterday with one worker to set up the forms. Either the plans I gave him had a miscalculation, or I had given him an older version of the plans. With all the wonky post positions and the calculations for styrofoam forms, something just didn't add up. Instead of trying to figure it out, we went back to the timber framers plans and wall system to figure out the positioning of the pilasters and that the exterior of the foundation wall needed to be 5 inches out from the posts.
Lessons 1 - Burn all old versions of your plans
Lesson 2 - Make sure your contractors know what they're building.
This morning I checked the measurements and it all checked out, but the interior post footings were off; fixed it. Roger and I double checked the post positions together before the pour: measuring tape was flying everywhere. Roger used string wrapped to nails on top of the forms to line up the post positions to make sure they'd be resting on pilasters. Roger then used them to position the post anchors into the concrete. Double checked these after. One was half an inch off.
No pictures of finished pour today. Camera was out of batteries, and I was too busy measuring to take pictures.
The final footings
Concrete, if used correctly, is a fine thing. Sure, it has a nasty carbon footprint, but note how the footing keeps the water from that little spring pooling in the crevice at bottom right. This is good, because it is not pooling inside the house. Water pooling under the house is not environmental; it leaves mold. We filled this pool with extra concrete left over after the foundation pour. The spring now drains behind the house (to the left of the photo).
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Final wall system
Well, I screwed up a calculation on the foundation pillasters and confused the foundation contractor. Had to recalculate on the spot. Good thing I had everthing on this blog to print out.Given that the foundation forms are now up, this will have to be the final version of the wall system. Features include:
- 2' footings
- 8'' walls
- wall height 2'-3'
- 8'' pillasters to support posts
- foundation walls protrude 5'' from post exterior
- 4'' SM insulation outside foundation
- 2'' SM insulation inside foundation
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Forms for footings
The plans for the foundation are outlined here.
The foundation contractor (Laroche et fils) showed up with a flat bed and crane that deposited and a nice portable tool shed on the site (see previous post). The excavation had actually left the site more even than anticipated, despite some undulating crevices and depression that caused the water to pool. All in all, the footing ended up having only three steps, and the final height varies by no more than a foot.
Diagram of well

Here's the diagram of the well with all the relevant statistics. The back fill has yet to be added. We hit water at 60 ft but needed to continue until about 180 ft to get a decent fill rate of 100 gallons/hr. The water levels off at about 30 ft below the surface. The reservoir of water is about 135 U.S. gallons or 620 litres.
The bentonite collar is necessary in the code to prevent infiltration from surface water because we are directly on the rock. Bentonite is a type of concrete that expands enormously when it comes into contact with water. It added a nifty $1700 to the cost of the well :-/ .
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Busy worksite
We were expecting the well people from Puisatiers Exprets from Granby this morning. I hear action at the site, grab my well permit, and rush up to the site only to find the people from Laroche et fils getting ready to build the footings for my foundation. So I rush down to finish my foundation plans.
It was a busy worksite, but manageable. The contractors seemed to know how to stay out of each others way. Good thing, because there was a lot of coming and going. I managed to get some work in myself, although I was not nearly as busy as I appear to be here. Here I am moving the leftover concrete from the pump truck. I'm using it to block the runoff from a small spring in the driveway. This should help divert the water from a natural crevice under the house to a natural crevice running BEHIND the house.
Roger Laroche inspects his footing pour at far right, and the well guys drill for water in the background.
Roger Laroche inspects his footing pour at far right, and the well guys drill for water in the background.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Current foundation system and footprint
This foundation option shows- 2' wide footing on the bedrock.
- 8'' (7 7/8'') foundation wall (2'-4' high) supporting insulated wall truss system
- 8'' pilasters to support posts of timber frame.
- 21/2'' insulated concrete forms (Aarx)
- 2'' Styrofoam SM board on outside of foundation; flush with sheathing from wall system
- High point is on southwest corner of house.
It will be built in the following sequence:- Footings layed on bare rock; footing for chimney and interior posts anchored to stone
- ICF's put in place, sill anchors and sub-floor utility cut through ICF's, and walls poured
- Weeping tile placed to drain interior; layer of clear stone placed to cover weeping tile; moisture barrier put in place; all interior covered with clear stone
- frame and roof built on foundation walls
- hydronic heating tubing and equipment installed and 4'' hydronic slab poured
Dimensions of forms are for Aarx ICFs. Cross section shows an 8'' wall with an extra 2'' of styrofoam insulation (R-35; total extra cost $800 for extra styrofoam assuming 3' high wall all around). ICF's represent equivalent insulation value of $2000 worth of Styrofoam SM insulation.I've consulted various foundation builders on the feasability of pouring a concrete wall directly onto the bedrock using insulated concreted forms (ICFs). Even the contractors (along with representatives form the ICF manufacturers) willing to do it said that it is less labor intensive and hence cheaper to build a stepped footing directly on the rock, place the ICF's flat on the footing, and pour on the walls onto the footings. It appears any saving in concrete is mitigated by the awkwardness and increased labor costs of scribing the ICF's to the rock.
A 2ft-wide footing also has the advantage of a) being more resistant to washout than a 10'' foundation wall b) not requiring drilled rebar (the rock is undulating and uneven, so that footings will be be held firmly in place), and c) being decoupled from the actual foundation for a certain amount of seismic damping in the event of earthquake.
That makes this the preferred option.
References:
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Revised wall system I
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Chimney
The Intrepid is approved for venting into a masonry chimney with a nominal flue size of 8” x 8” (200 x 200 mm) .Footing is on base rock and rises to level of slab. Slab covers footing. A 2" wooden floor will cover the concrete floor.
Height ( above slab): 26'
Flue size: 8” x 8”
Masonry all thickness: 4"
Total dimensions: 1'4''
Distance from south interior wall: 6'3''
Distance from west interior wall: 13'11''
Clearance from woodstove: 9''
Clearance from main beam: 4''
Clearance from roof peak (lateral): 3'6''
Clearance from roof peak (height): 2'1''
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